Hukum main forex 2013 corvette
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These clips hold the rear oxygen sensor harnesses to the tunnel shield. The connectors for the oxygen sensors are up at the front near the exhaust manifolds. There are three 15MM nuts on each exhaust manifold connection that must be removed. If you have headers, remove the five 10mm bolts from each header flange and swing them out of position. Hold them in place with straps or bungee cords. There are also rear exhaust pipe hangers to be removed. Once the exhaust is out of the way, remove the multitude of 8MM screws holding the center heat shield in place.
Remove the intake tubing from the throttle body before lowering the drivetrain not pictured. It is recommended to have two transmission jacks to lower the drivetrain. Place one under the rear suspension cradle and one beneath the transmission. Remove the four 21mm bolts for the rear suspension cradle. Note: do NOT use an impact tool for this step, as an impact tool will break the retaining rivets for the nuts meaning you will have to remove carpeting and cut a hole in the floor pan.
To begin removal of the assembly, remove all but two bolts that are used to retain the torque tube to the bell housing. Slowly begin to lower the rear end. You will need to carefully watch for parts to disconnect, like the differential wiring harness.
The brake lines will pass between the rear differential and the half shafts. Then the jack is lowered slowly to allow the engine to angle back and stop at the firewall. Do NOT let the engine rest against the firewall, as damage will occur.
With the differential supported, have a helper remove the last two torque tubes to bell housing bolts. Move the complete assembly away from the bell housing while the front of the torque tube is held up by your helper. The torque tube is not heavy at this point. Once the white collar is completely pushed in, the line will release. Remove the 13mm bolts at the end of the torque tube to the bell housing.
Take a measurement at the front and rear, as the height will vary slightly at each end. This will make it easier when it comes time to reassemble everything. Place a bottle jack underneath the oil pan to keep the engine from tilting upon removing the torque tube. Pull the torque tube and rear assembly backward until the shaft at the end of the tube is clear of the bell housing.
Remove the large wiring harness from the top of the torque tube, in addition to several connectors on the transmission. Completely lower the transmission jacks so that everything will clear upon removal. Observe the shifter base during this step, as it can catch the lines on the driver side of the tunnel. Slow and steady is the key here. Once lowered, position the assembly away from the underside of the car for more space.
This is a prime opportunity to replace the slave cylinder our part number slave cylinder and release bearing assembly is a direct replacement and add a remote bleeder extension pictured is the Tick Performance Speed Bleeder.
The rear cradle allows you to balance the assembly on a transmission jack easier than the differential itself. This torque tube photo shows the shifter mounted on the tube with the stick removed. We typically remove the three T30 Torx bit screws and remove the complete shifter. The shifter has two Torx bit screws, and the linkage has one in the rod clamp. For orientation purposes, the left side of the photo is the engine side of the tube. If needed, service the release bearing and hydraulic clutch release cylinder.
If desired, remove the 13mm bolts from the bell housing and pull the bell housing. It is not necessary to do this. Replacement is like a traditional clutch at this point. Remove the six 13mm pressure plate bolts. The pressure plate bolts should be removed, a couple of turns at a time, in a criss-cross pattern. This evenly releases pressure on the clutch disc and plate. NOTE: the pressure plate and the clutch disc will come out after removing the bolts.
Next, remove the 6 15mm flywheel bolts and remove the flywheel. If the flywheel is checked with hot spots super hot metal smearing across the flywheel face and then balling up , it should be resurfaced. These hot spots are extremely hard and sometimes will not machine out.
The machine tool skips over the hard spot preventing a smooth engagement surface. You should only remove. Something to consider is, has the flywheel been machined in the past? After the main assembly is out of the way, the lower bell housing cover is removed to reveal the clutch assembly.
At this point, you can also remove the bell housing to get at the clutch pressure plate bolts easier. This clutch assembly is from an earlier Corvette. The clutch disc lining has been thrown off from high RPM. The flywheel clutch surface is full of checkmarks hotspots , questioning the possibility of resurfacing the flywheel.
Of course, the pressure plate is junk. All flywheels have a tendency to cone outward from pressure plate applied forces. Here we are checking to see how bad the cone is with a feeler gauge. Hydraulic clutches have limited travel. Excessive flywheel machining can cause clutch disengagement problems.
We use. Once the flywheel is torqued and ready for the clutch assembly, wash the machined surfaces with brake cleaner or alcohol. This step is often missed, causing clutch chatter from the contaminated surfaces. Installing the flywheel takes some care to avoid rear main seal oil leaks from crankshaft hub distortion.
Clean the flywheel bolts with brake cleaner and apply blue Loctite to the threads before installation. A torque wrench should be used to incrementally tighten the flywheel to crankshaft bolts in a star pattern. Put the clutch disc in the pressure plate and place both parts against the flywheel, hand-tighten the six bolts. Find the alignment tool provided with your new clutch in most cases; if not, an old input shaft will work as a substitute.
Position the alignment tool through the pressure plate, the clutch disc, and into the pilot bearing. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern with steps. NOTE: If an aftermarket clutch is being used, make sure to verify the final torque specs, as they will differ from the factory specs.
Failure to do this may result in broken bolts. Realign if it does not. Tip: hand tighten the bolts, wiggling the alignment tool, then slowly tighten the bolts give the tool a wiggle every once in a while to check the tension on it. Our part number slave cylinder and release bearing assembly is a direct replacement.
The addition of an aftermarket bleeder extension would be ideal here. The throwout bearing is attached via a large spring. To remove the bearing, push it in and rotate it counterclockwise until it pops out. Now is the best time to replace the transmission fluid. Once the transmission is back in place, a pump must be used to fill the unit. We have part number GM Synchromesh transmission fluid available for a factory fill. First, completely lower the transmission jacks.
Slide the assembly under the car until the tip of the input shaft is positioned near the bell housing opening. Find the height measurements that you took during disassembly. Begin to raise the jacks slowly. Alternate raising each jack, as a single jack cannot support the entire weight of the drivetrain.
If available, use a bottle jack at the end of the torque tube to aid in lining up the input shaft with the clutch assembly. Put some lithium grease on the input shaft to prevent squeaks and aid in reassembly. Avoid getting grease on the clutch at all costs. Once the jacks are at their correct height and the input shaft looks lined up, start pulling, pushing the drivetrain into place.
It is strongly recommended to have two people complete this task. It is critical that the splines are correctly lined up. Use a large C-clamp to hold the end of the torque tube and the end of the drivetrain together. Crank the C-clamp down to draw the drivetrain into the clutch. The input shaft must go through the clutch disc grooves and into the pilot bearing. Keep turning the flywheel in tiny increments until they mesh. The input shaft will slide into position when it is just right.
Continue to pull the torque tube and drivetrain closer together. Important: As you get closer, take extra care to ensure that the drivetrain is angled and leveled correctly use a level on the rear swaybar to verify. After this, use the bell housing bolts to pull the parts together. Take caution not to tighten the bolts before you are certain that everything is aligned; otherwise, you run the risk of cross-threading and ruining the bolts in the bell housing.
Reconnect and tighten all connectors and bolts that were separated earlier. Take extra care to ensure that the wiring above the torque tube is not pinched. Also, watch the wiring harness located near the rear mufflers so that they do not touch the exhaust pipe.
The remote bleeder can be easily zip-tied to the fuel lines to keep it from rattling. We have our part number GM brake and clutch fluid available for factory fill and bleed. I had a major rear main seal fail on the road while driving my c 5. Smoke pouring out from under the hood, engine oil dumped on the roadway. This means removing rear assembly, torque tube, bell housing etc.
It makes sense to have a clutch and torque tube rebuild with the rear seal replacement. I was told these are not one in the same processes and I can still have drivetrain vibration. Would appreciate any comments or problems experienced by c 5 owners. Supposedly the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearings, and slave clutch were replaced in my vette not long before I bought it, but it is making a whining noise.
Sometimes louder than others, really annoying. What do you think the problem could be? Thanks for all input. This is a good time to check the couplers in the torque tube, the factory ones start to dry rot after 10yrs or in my case too many hard launches at redline.
The clutch job is just a smart thing to do at this point. Do you have a manual on how to reinstall the shifter linkage? Is there access to it without dropping the transmission and torque tube? There is a Black tube runs from under the shifter to inside the transmission. This links the shifter to the transmission. Under the shifter there are a few screws that secure the tube.
That is the only adjustment. Just wondering why no mention of replacing pilot bearing, especially when they are prone to go bad? Your email address will not be published. Base Corvette Convertible with 6. Grand Sport Corvette Coup with 6. Grand Sport Corvette Convertible with 6.
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